The Power of Deep Navels

So I spent this weekend with the Mawei tribal people in the mountainous region about six hours from Fuzhou. Saturday morning, we visited the spots where the Communists hid out after the Nationalists betrayed them and slaughtered 90% of their people in a night known as the "White Terror." I saw Mao's old office. The hills were treacherous and the tree cover discreet- no wonder they chose to hide out in the mountains.



The Mawei tribe also sought the safety of the hills to protect themselves from warlords and rebel armies. They built huge concrete structures that could house hundreds of people, and keep them safe from intruders with their cannon-proof walls. They were experts at drying fruit and other food so they could outlast a seize for months without a problem. They were safe from the Red Guard because they were so remote and hard to access. The village was so peaceful and idyllic, and they had excellent dried sweet potatoes and noodles. A few fun facts about the Mawei people:

The qualities Mawei women look for in a good son-in-law include the ability to hold his liqueur and having a deep navel. Deep navels are a sign that the man will make a lot of money. Young Mawei women are usually the pursuers. When she sees a man she like, she grabs him and drags him home to meet her family. The choice is ultimately up to her mother, who will investigate his navel and serve him dinner with rice wine. If he doesn't meet her qualifications, she will serve him glass noodles. If she isn't sure, a rice dish. If she approves of him, she will serve him three eggs, but he is only supposed to eat two of them. Mawei people are said to be very hospitable. They say if everyone is not drunk off the rice wine by the end of the night, which they make every year themselves and drink from a communal bowl, then the hosts have failed in their duty.


Drying fruit


A toulou, the home of the Mawei people